“The ornate Old Prison, still in use, is a continuous source of amusement as travelers regularly mistake it for one of the upper crust hotels and knock at its door asking for accommodation.”

Hohenzoller Haus at sunset: a national monument with a shady past!

Acapulco may be awesome, Biarritz may be beautiful and Cape Town’s Clifton beach may be cool, but Namibian holidaymakers know on a very primal level that Swakopmund is something else. In fact if you meet a Namibian in any of the world’s best known seaside resorts, he or she will no doubt spend an hour or two telling you how infinitely superior are the charms of Swakopmund. An added benefit is the fact that drinks in Swakopmund don’t usually come with straw umbrellas and price tags that make you wince.

During every major holiday and on all long weekends, thousands of Namibians migrate to Swakopmund in a desperate quest to escape the dry heat of the interior. Having no major industry other than a uranium mine about 80 kilometers into the desert, Swakopmund has adapted, and provides almost everything that a holidaymaker could want.

Namibians are naturally hospitable and any visit to Namibia will invariably include a trip to their very favourite holiday destination. Aside from the local charms and attractions, this is highly educational for visitors as they too will come to realize that Acapulco, Biarritz and Clifton are actually very overrated.

Swakopmund is quite a surreal environment. Picture ornate, old German buildings in the midst of the dunes and you will be able to imagine why. In fact one surrealist painter, Keith Alexander, has made a name for himself painting old buildings in the desert in scenes that suspiciously resemble Swakopmund. The only difference is that, unless you overdo the sun and the alcohol, you won’t see Oryx in the town.

Swakopmund was initially established as a port when Namibia was a German colony. The strong currents, occasionally rough seas, the difficult trip through the Namib to Windhoek and the interruption of World War One put an end to the idea, although the remnants of the partially completed jetty are still a very picturesque reminder of those days.

Aside from the Rossing Uranium mine, Swakopmund’s mainstays are seasonally profitable shops, restaurants, hotels and activities for visitors. The standards of hospitality are generally high, depending on the budget. The food, influenced by the German style of cooking, is excellent. In other words, although it is by the sea, don’t be surprised by the number of heavy meat dishes on the menu. Shopping consists primarily of the more expensive varieties of clothing and jewelry, as well as curios.

Swakopmund’s colonial buildings hold their own. Two buildings stand out. The ornate Old Prison, still in use, is a continuous source of amusement as travelers regularly mistake it for one of the upper crust hotels and knock at its door asking for accommodation. Hohenzoller Haus, the facade of which is decorated in faux Victorian style, has a certain gravity but this balloon is punctured when visitors are told that it was once a brothel.

Although Namibians travel to Swakopmund to be beside the sea and to escape the heat, the big attraction for visitors is its close proximity to the desert. In fact, Swakopmund is so close to the Namib that, if not for regular road sweeping, the surrounding dunes would quite possibly engulf the south eastern part of the town.

The desert is a giant sandpit for all ages and types. The obvious activity is a quiet walk between the dunes, stopping to look at the ocean and the ships that appear between the crests. With a little bit of imagination and the right location, it is quite possible to get a shot of a ship that appears to be sailing not on the sea, just over the crest of the dune, but on the dune itself.

The dunes offer more energetic activities though. Kite flying is a definite possibility, as is parasailing. There are demarcated areas for quad biking and offroad driving. Although quad bike rentals are popular, stick to rules and drive cautiously, no matter how soft the sand appears. Bear in mind that a number of overly adventurous individuals have their enthusiasm cut short every year. Stay within the demarcated zone as well. The areas facing the dunes are breeding spots for the endangered Damara Tern, and any damage to a nest or a bird has the tendency to make it into the papers and enrage everyone.

Dune boarding and sand skiing are other alternatives. For that good old-fashioned Lawrence of Arabia feel, try a camel trek.

Swakopmund is a moment of relaxation and slight decadence in the midst of a very busy tour. Relax, enjoy it and treat yourself in whatever way you can: there will be plenty of opportunity for all three.

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