Real Namibia

“Although vehicle paint is generally impervious to the sort of mild sandblasting that is a Skeleton Coast speciality, at least in the short term, human skin is not.”

The Skeleton Coast environment: harsh to say the least, but equally beautiful.

The Skeleton Coast was pioneered by explorers in search of fortunes, unlucky travelers and their rescuers. Nobody in their wildest dreams ever considered it as a travel destination, until a lawyer by the name of Louw Schoeman arrived on the scene.

According to his biography, he first visited the area when “prospecting, and researching the feasibility of a new harbour in the area”. The harbour never materialized, but recognizing the potential of the area as well as its fragility, he pioneered ecotourism in the Skeleton Coast. His wife, Amy Schoeman, went on to gain acclaim with her photography of the area, and also published a book on the Skeleton Coast.

In the early Nineties, the concession for tourism in the area was awarded to a German national. Although there may have been a profit motive in this step, it is hard to discern any emotional logic in the matter. The event still embitters many Namibians, particularly those who knew Louw Schoeman and recognised his deep commitment and abiding love for the Skeleton Coast. He died shortly after losing the concession, but his name is inextricably linked to the area.

The Schoeman family still conducts tours into the Skeleton Coast but in terms of the concession is not allowed to drive into the concession area, however they do fly over it.

Shipwrecks aside, the Skeleton coast is a remarkable place. As much as it is beautiful, it is also a very harsh environment. A traveler to the area will see incredible scenery and wonderful sights. On the other hand, even given the comforts of the current camp and the vehicles, there is a lot of challenge in the environment.

The most noticeable element is the wind. Although vehicle paint is generally impervious to the sort of mild sandblasting that is a Skeleton Coast speciality, at least in the short term, human skin is not. Travelers are advised to wear long trousers, long sleeved shirts or blouses, sunglasses and a hat that covers the back of the neck and the side of the head to avoid a memorable scouring. Note that toothy grins will be rewarded with a mouthful of fine sand. Your dentist might not approve. A full face mask would be a very good idea, if not for the laughter.

The power of the wind can be seen in the migrating dunes. As a point of interest, a dune will cover a part of the road on one day and vacate it the next.

The cold is another interesting element to the weather. Perhaps you have heard the expression, ‘when hell freezes over’ indicating something unlikely. In fact, freezing cold weather, helped along by wind chill, is a regular occurrence during winter. Even at midday, a jersey, jacket and blanket over the knees, are high fashion in the Skeleton Coast.

Expect it to be hot during summer, but cool enough for a jacket between sunset and sunrise.

The scenery has a way of being spectacular. Of particular note was the high viewpoint with a view that seems to stretch over forever. Here, the adjective ‘pastel’ comes into play. Other points of interest include ‘Springbokvlakte’, or Springbuck Plain in English, a natural spring which attracts the buck, as well as the walk up a dry riverbed in which are found the Sand Castles, huge buttresses of hardened sand.

Don’t expect to see anything larger than a springbuck or oryx, though you may see a jackal as well. The main point of interest as far as the fauna is concerned is the fact that it is sometimes so quiet that you can hear the frantic digging of mice as they try to find cover when you sit down next to whatever bush they called home until you sat down next to it.

The area is known for desert elephants, an adaptation of the African elephant, with flatter soles on their feet for walking on soft sand. You have a fair chance of seeing one of these if you leave the dune belt and head east on a guided game drive into the western reaches of Kaokoland. Be warned: they are anything but friendly creatures, so keep your distance.

You have virtually no chance of seeing the desert dwelling lions, but if you do, and you manage to get a good photo, make sure to sell the shot while retaining the rights. It could be a nice source of income.

The obligatory trip to the beach shows the savagery of the ocean. Even the smaller waves attack the rocks with over-ambitious aggression. This is a good point to roll up your trouser legs and decide that my advice on dress, a few paragraphs back, was sensible.

An interesting but disheartening phenomenon is the amount of litter that washes up. It comes with labels from all over the world. Of further interest is the debate between conservationists. Some say that it should be removed. Others suggest that it should remain, as although it is a manmade phenomenon, it has become part of the ecosystem. This is not as ridiculous as it sounds if you think it through, just debatable. On the other hand, don’t join in by littering. The stuff that is washed up is a phenomenon particular to the ocean. You on the other hand will be a humble visitor.

The Skeleton Coast is a fragile environment, so the number of travelers entering the area is purposefully limited. Expect to pay a small fortune for the privilege of a couple of days. On the other hand, it will be worth every cent.

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